Visiting Morioka: The Land of Wanko Soba

From its beautiful, lush landscapes and delicious localities, Northern Japan has much to offer to lovers of the island nation. For anime fans heading to the city of Morioka in the northern Iwate prefecture, this area of Japan also provides an unforgettable experience, housing many iconic anime and manga locations one can visit and enjoy.

Nestled in the scenic mountains of Iwate about two and a half hours from Tokyo via bullet train, Morioka is known nationwide for its ironware and special style of soba, known as ‘wanko soba’. In recent years it has also gained worldwide appeal for being one of the locations featured in the hit manga and anime series “March Comes in Like a Lion” by author Umino Chica, a coming-of-age story about Kiriyama, a 17-year-old shogi prodigy.  There are many scenes featured in both the manga and anime and live action adaptation, so let us explore Morioka!

1. Visiting the Nanshoso Gardens

Our first stop in Morioka is the Nanshoso Gardens located in the heart of the city. Built in 1885 by businessman Yasugoro Yorikawa, Nanshoso is a unique blend of Japanese and Western architecture, having undergone a long history detailed for visitors to experience in the English language. One of the things that stood out was how multicultural the house is despite its traditional Japanese architecture, with the painting of the Taj Mahal placed there by the owner.

Nanshoso Gardens is also a must-see for fans of “March Comes in Like a Lion”, and it is evident upon your entry, as you are greeted by posters of the movie along with the original manga volumes on full display. One room served as a pivotal shot in the movie, as it was the location where Kiriyama battled one of his most important challenges in the series. The interior overlooks a traditional Japanese garden, making for a scenic photo-spot.

One of the things that stands out is the intricate ‘ranma’, the panels featured atop Japanese floors. The floorboards are more modern and reflect the incoming sun rays, an aspect that reflects Nanshoso’s long history. For a certain period a Western family had lived in Nanshoso and changed the traditional bamboo tatami to a more westernized flooring, hence the change. This robust history has been preserved in English guidebooks and tours that provide deeper insight into the history of the beautiful dwelling.

One of the highlights of visiting Nanshoso is the garden. Depending on the season you visit, the foliage transitions from vivid green to the iconic autumn colors of Japan, known as 紅葉(kouyou). Nanshoso offers delicious Japanese sweets known as ‘wagashi’ made from locally sourced materials along with the most delicious apple juice I’ve ever tried in my life- which is no surprise, because Morioka is famous worldwide for its delicious apples.

Sitting in Nanshoso eating traditional desserts while overlooking the garden is like a dream come true- it really felt like I was in the Adventures of Alice in Wonderland.

Access Information Nanshoso 南昌荘 Address: 13-46 Shimizu-cho, Morioka-shi, Iwate 020-0875 Opening Hours: Summer (4/1-11/30) 10AM-15PM, Winter (12/1-3/31) 10AM-4PM Link: https://www.tohokukanko.jp/en/attractions/detail_1003971.html

2. Eating traditional sweets at Shirasawa Senbeiten

Not far from Nanshoso Garden is another treat that combines both tradition and popular culture. In recent years Shirasawa Senbeiten has garnered a huge following among younger audiences as a result of their creative collabs with various anime and gaming series.

The store has celebrated a hundred years of service, and it’s evident from the beautiful rustic architecture that speaks of its history.

The packaging has a distinct showa vibe to it, which is famous for the beloved 80s style. There are so many different designs that make wonderful souvenirs to family and friends. Personally, I really loved the cute mascot characters, which attract their own fanbase!

Senbei is a traditional Japanese rice cracker that is actually quite well known in the Middle East, as its style was incorporated in our rice crackers as well. What makes Shirasawa Senbeiten unique though is the array of flavors, from the more traditional to some you don’t quite see in any other store. Personally, the chocolate and peanut flavors were my favorite!

All the senbei is prepared fresh in the story daily, and the staff were so kind in showing us how the process works. I also had a chance to make my own senbei, and one of the things that surprised me is how heavy the metal pan is! The staff working the store were extremely adept with their hands, a testament of their expertise and the delicious senbei.

I tried my hand at making the peanut flavor. You start by adding the amount of peanuts you would like (I went all out...). The batter is then added on top, and a sand dial is used as a timer as the senbei biscuit is baked. The timing it requires is extremely precise, and the staff was extremely adept in keeping track of it.

One corner of the store stands out- the anime corner! Shirasawa Senbeiten has collaborated with many anime and game series to make special flavors and packaging, which bolstered popularity amongst the younger generation. Being a traditional treat, senbei is long-enjoyed by older generations, but these collaborations help revitalize the tradition and continue the love for these delicious crackers forever more.

Access Information Shirasawa Senbeiten 老舗白沢せんべい店 Address: 2-16 Konyacho, Morioka-shi, Iwate 020-0885 Opening Hours: 9AM-5:40PM Link: https://iwatetabi.jp/en/spots/78809/

3. Recreating Anime Scenes At Morioka Station

Our next stop is Morioka Station, and for good reason- it is also a location featured in many anime. In recent years, the explosive popularity of the manga and anime Jujutsu Kaisen caught the world by storm, and Morioka Station is a location that made an appearance in this highly popular franchise. Astute fans may also recognize Morioka’s façade from ‘March Comes in Like a Lion’, as Kiriyama arrived in the city for an important career-defining match.

  One of the amazing things about Japanese media is how accurately all locations are recreated in the 2D form. In most cases, staff working on the series travel to the location in real life, even going as far as the Middle East for series like JoJo’s Bizarre Adventure!

It is evident that the artists working on March Comes in Like a Lion have familiarity with Morioka Station, as it was recreated faithfully. You can take photographs from the same angles as those featured in the show, recreating your favorite moments in a blend of fiction and reality. But this inspiration is not only limited to the entrance, as one of the most iconic scenes in the series happened on the bullet train platform of Morioka Station. Here, Kiriyama has his first encounter with the shogi master Souya. Fans of the series remember this moment dearly, as it is a turning point in Kiriyama’s journey of self-discovery.

Morioka Station is also a bustling center with shops and souvenir stops. Wanko Soba, Morioka’s specialty, is available for purchase in the station, and fresh deals are available year-round. The station is also decorated from top to bottom in wanko soba and apples, a testament to Morioka’s beloved delicacies.

Access Information Morioka Station Address: 1-48 Moriokaekimaedori, Morioka, Iwate 020-0034, Japan

4. Challenging Wanko Soba at Azumaya

We will need some food to continue exploring Morioka, and what better place to do so than Wanko Soba? I’m sure most of you have heard of soba before. While ramen remains one of the most well known Japanese dishes worldwide (thanks to a certain ninja, I would imagine!), soba is a thinner noodle made from buckwheat. It is extremely light and can be served with or without broth hot or cold, making it the perfect dish for any seasons.

What makes wanko soba different than normal soba is that it isn’t merely a dish- it’s an experience. And it’s not for the lighthearted.

Upon entering the Azumaya, the atmosphere was clearly intense from the doorstep. There were staff screaming everywhere, and I was so caught off guard. It was my first experience trying it, and I don’t think I was thoroughly prepared for what was to come.

So what is wanko soba? Wanko soba basically combines dining with challenge. Upon sitting, servers will come to your table carrying soba noodles that they…. Throw into your dish. Literally. With great precision. It was an amazing sight; I didn’t think the human hand could even be so dexterous. Even in a table of 20, you’ll see the staff going between each customer the second their bowl is empty and throwing in more of those delicious noodles.

The size of the bowl is not large, it’s really bite-sized. But do not underestimate the intensity- it is a lot to take in for the lighthearted. But for those who love to eat and enjoy a good challenge? It is the perfect spot. I recommend everyone to try wanko soba. Personally I don’t eat much, but even I managed to reach 22 bowls- a record!

At the end, the staff at Azumaya reward tourists with a special plaque commemorating the number of bowls they consumed- a souvenir that is well earned, I would say.

Azumaya is also filled with cat-themed decorations, and for good reason. When you leave the store, the street is just filled to the brim with adorable cats everywhere! Here are some shots I took.

Access Information AZUMAYA HONTEN 東家本店 Address: 1-8-3, Nakanohashidori, Morioka-shi, Iwate, 020-0871 Opening Hours: 11AM–3PM, 5PM–7PM Link: https://wankosoba.jp/

5. My Hotel was a Bus Station

Time for rest… and what better place to do so than a bus station.

Wait, what?

That’s right. A bus station turned hotel. A refurbished bus station. That is where we will stay- Hotel Mazarium

Never in my life did I imagine I would sleep in a bus station, and I have to say, this is one of the best hotels I ever experienced. The layout was left as it is, so upon arrival you can immediately tell this is a bus terminal. But that’s part of the appeal. It’s like an adventure, as I’ve never seen a hotel like this before!

The rooms are also extremely fun to stay in. The layout is compact and snug, very spacious and quiet. The hotel also comes with an onsen, or hot springs, so you can tell people that you took a dip in a bus station. It’s definitely the most unique hotel experience I’ve ever tried.

The hotel is equipped with a restaurant, rest area, and laundromat, make it so convenient for access.

Hotel Mazarium is also known for its jazz-theme, its dining area fully equipped with a jazz museum and live performances. I managed to catch one, and it only elevated the experience to a whole new level. Jazz music has enjoyed a long history in Japan, and Mazarium is sure to carve itself into it.

For breakfast, visitors have the choice between western and Japanese cuisine, and the staff was kind enough to accommodate any dietary needs (in my case, they removed any pork products, which I was extremely happy to know!) I went with the western dish, and was blown away by how fresh the ingredients were. Of course, breakfast came with fresh apple juice- because it’s Morioka. You can never go wrong with apple juice in Morioka.

Access Information Hotel Mazarium Address: 1-9-22 Nakanohashidori, Morioka City, Iwate Prefecture 020-0871, Japan Opening Hours: 11AM–3PM, 5PM–7PM Link: https://hotelmazarium.com/

Closing Thoughts

Morioka offers a wonderful blend of tradition and modernity, showcasing how anime tourism can compliment Japanese customs in ways that attract local and foreign tourists alike. If you are a fan of anime and delicious noodles, then make sure to make a stop at Morioka on your next trip!