Kanazawa: Prefecture of Tradition and Future

A mere 2 hours and a half away from the hustle and bustle of Tokyo lies a world brimming with tradition and modernity that has long attracted visitors from far and wide.

The city of Kanazawa is the capital of Ishikawa Prefecture is renowned for its gorgeous Japanese gardens and traditional architecture in addition to boasting a reputation as one of the most famous landmarks of the samurai.

This unique cultural aspect makes the coastal city a popular destination, but new modern attractions have equally enticed many to step into this land preserved in time.

Today, we shall explore such traditional and modern spots by touring Kanazawa city before tying in to the next post, where we head to the mountainous countryside and take a dip in the famous hot springs featured in the 2012 P.A. Works anime “Hanasaku Iroha”. Let’s start the journey!

1. Arriving at Kanazawa Station

Hopping off the bullet train, you are greeted with the beautiful facade of Kanazawa Station, the prefecture’s major hub. The architecture is a seamless blend of tradition and modernity, evoking the essence of the city itself. The Tsuzumi (drum) gate in the front entrance welcomes visitors to the city, and is a popular photo spot.

The station was quite big but very well organized, so it is easy for you to find your way around the city. Right after exiting the main entrance you will find a taxi stand immediately, and your journey starts here!

2. Delicious Bento at Ushijyu Teraoka

Located a short 10 minute walk from the station, Ushijyu Teraoka is a beloved famous restaurant serving delicious beef bento boxes. What makes this specific spot a hit is the delectable quality of the beef, which is entirely sourced from the Teraoka livestock first established way back in 1904.

And true to its reputation, the meat was absolutely delectable, melting in your mouth, each flavor harmonizing with the delicious Kanazawa rice. The restaurant was quite full, vouching for its popularity, so make sure to reserve before visiting!

Access Information Ushijyu Teraoka (うし重てらおか） Address: 12-4 Yasuecho, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0854, Japan Opening Hours: 11 AM–2:30 PM, 5:30–8 PM (Closed on Tuesdays) Link: https://www.instagram.com/rtf_teraoka

3. The Higashiyama Higashi Chaya District

After lunch, a 15-minute-walk brought me to the Higashiyama Higashi Chaya District, one of Kanazawa’s most popular cultural spots known for its historical tea houses, geisha, and traditional architecture.

The district is like a well preserved time capsule, one step in is like being transported back to the days of the samurai, of which Kanazawa is historically famous for. The mountains surrounding the area make for a scenic spot, and the entire district is a serene getaway from the city.

In addition to the traditional tea houses, modern cafes also adorn the area, offering new twists on old classics. Seeing as I went in the summer, most of the food offered was quite cool, like ice cream anmitsu. There are multiple shrines down the street as well, lending to the traditional air of the city.

Here in the district, you can also become a part of the history by partaking in a gold leaf workshop. Kanazawa is famous for its gold leaf, serving as the nation’s number one producer. You may have encountered gold leaf in many places before, from the famous Golden Temple in Kyoto to dishware and even ice cream and sweets.

In the heart of Kanazawa, you can create your own gold leaf memento to carry back home. There are many designs and options, and they make perfect presents.

I stopped by Kanazawa Bikazari Asano, a local store known for its beautiful handicrafts. There, you can pick from an array of souvenirs in addition to attempting to create your own in the workshop located on the second floor.

The process begins with choosing what product you would like to decorate. There are a variety of options and colors, and they also change depending on the season!

In my case, I went for the plate, the most popular choice. For the actual seal, there were many options and I faltered for a while, but I eventually settled for the Kanazawa option to commemorate the day. According to the staff these designs, too, change based on the season, making for an extra special memento.

The first step to the process is placing your seal on the location you would like. After ensuring that it is placed properly and securely glued on, I applied the gold leaf on top so that its residue can remain on the glued portion.

Now here comes the tricky part- you actually need a lot of strength and force to push the gold leaf into the design! This process also requires some precision, and the staff were extremely supportive in their help.

Finally, after a lot of pushing, I removed the remaining gold leaf and the plate came out beautifully! This kind of work requires a lot of care, but once you accomplish it, you feel as if you truly partook in the creation of a precious memory.

You can book your own experience at the Kanazawa Bikazari Asano website, which I have linked below.

Access Information Kanazawa Bikazari Asano (かなざわ 美かざり あさの) Address: 1 Chome-8-3 Higashiyama, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0831, Japan Opening Hours: 9 AM–6 PM Link: https://enkanazawa.hakuichi.co.jp/experience/

4. The Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art

After stepping into the past, next was a visit to the future at the Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art. Opened in 2004, the museum houses contemporary artworks from all over the world, making the visit an international experience. Indeed, upon arrival, the museum proved to be as popular as ever.

The building comprises a single floor encapsulated by glass windows that blend the outside nature with the modern interior. Outside, there are many interactive displays complimenting the natural landscape. One thing that definitely struck me was this blend of nature and man-made installations, lending the contemporary installations an organic feel.

One of the most popular attractions in Kanazawa as a whole is The Swimming Pool by Leandro Erlich. Situated in the museum’s inner courtyard, you might have seen this pool on social media before. Looking at it from atop, it seems as an ordinary pool, but that is the illusion which lends the piece its stellar reputation. The water is actually floating atop a 10cm deep glass, the rest of it hollow. This, of course, makes it an interactive exhibit, with visitors able to access the pool underneath. Due to its popularity, we needed to line up to register for a time slot, but from then on it was a smooth entry.

Underneath the pool, the weather was much cooler, especially in summer. According to the museum’s description of the piece, The Swimming Pool aims to foster connection through the thin layer of water separating the world above and below. Personally, I felt said connection as visitors from above energetically waved at us down below!

Access Information Kanazawa 21st Century Museum of Contemporary Art Address: 1 Chome-2-1 Hirosaka, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-8509, Japan Opening Hours: 10 AM–8 PM (Friday and Saturday), 10 AM–6 PM (Sunday through Thursday, Closed on Mondays) Link: https://www.kanazawa21.jp/en/

5. Omicho Market

A trip to Japan is not complete without a visit to one of its fish markets, and Omicho Market is the epitome of Kanazawa’s tradition, having been first built in the Edo period, starting in 1609. Today, it continues its legacy as Kanazawa’s largest fish market, attracting locals and tourists alike.

Arriving in the morning, you will be able to experience the market at the height of its activity with the fresh catch having just been delivered. The market itself closes rather early, though many visitors opt to arrive in noontime to try one of the many restaurants. These places prove to be popular, so make sure you get there in time to try the local dishes!

One of the more interesting finds I saw there was a vending machine that dispenses fresh fish. There truly is a vending machine for everything in Japan!

One of the main reasons for Omicho Market’s popularity among tourists is also anime-related, as the shops were featured as-is in the anime “Hanasaku Iroha”. Minko, a young chef working in a traditional Japanese inn, visits Omicho Market for shopping, and you can actually find the same exact stores she stopped by. This blend of reality and anime is a wonderful opportunity to experience traditional and pop culture at once.

Omicho Market

Access Information Omicho Market Address: 50 Kamiomicho, Kanazawa, Ishikawa 920-0905, Japan Opening Hours:  9 AM–5 PM Link: https://ohmicho-ichiba.com/

Closing Thoughts

Kanazawa is a beautiful city of tradition and modernity, local treasures and international beauty. While Kyoto may enjoy its global reputation as the home of all that is traditional, Kanazawa offers a tranquil trek and its own touch as the land of Japan's samurai.

In the next installment we will explore the anime-related locations near Kanazawa City, so make sure to check that post out as well!